Bearded dragons have some of the most personally as it comes to reptiles. This is what has made them one of the most kept reptiles in the United States. However, beginner keepers need to ensure they have done proper research prior to owning their first dragon due to their higher care needs. With proper care, bearded dragons can live 10-15 years.
Before getting your bearded dragon, check out my YouTube video on the “Pros and Cons of Bearded Dragons.”
Disclosure: I am not a vet, but I do breed and own bearded dragons. The information below is from my own research and personal experiences.
Housing and Enclosure Setup
Your bearded dragon needs adequate space to thrive. A minimum enclosure size of 40 gallons is recommended for juveniles, while adult bearded dragons require at least 75-120 gallons. A 4x2x2 foot tank is ideal for adults and provides room for climbing, basking, and exploring. I also recommend buying a front-opening enclosure. Front opening makes it easier to feed and clean. Also, bearded dragons have a “third eye” on top of their head. It is a scale that can sense predators from up above. Picking them up from above can be fearful for your new dragon. Below is a link to the brand tank that I like and use. And, no, I am not a sponsor. I just like this tank.
4x2x2 (120 Gallon) Reptile Enclosure V3
You can find this enclosure at https://dubiaroaches.com/products/4-x2-x2-pvc-reptile-enclosure
Proper lighting is essential for bearded dragon health. Install a UVB strip light that covers about two-thirds of the enclosure and runs for 10-12 hours daily. Choose a T8 or T5 (T5 being stronger) at 10 to 14%. If you have a bigger enclosure, I recommend 12% or 14% due to the distance from top of enclosure to your dragon. This light is essential for the health of your bearded dragon. It helps your dragon produce vitamin D3 which helps absorb calcium. Without vitamin D3 and calcium, your dragon will develop Metabolic Bone Disease. This is when the body depletes the bone of Calcium. Bones become soft and they become brittle with deformities.
Below is an example of a proper UVB light for you baby. You can get this at many reptile/animal stores, Amazon, and at your local Reptile Expo!
Pair the UVB light with a basking lamp that maintains a warm spot between 95-110°F on the warm side of the tank, with the cool side staying around 75-80°F. You do not need a heat source at night. If you have rocks or bricks under the heat bulb, it will absorb heat and keep it warm at night. If the room your dragon is in doesn’t drop into the low 60s, he/she will be fine. I place both my UVB and heat lamp on a timer, so I don’t have to remember to turn it on or off. The timer you can get off line and even at your local hardware store. For the heat lamp, make sure you get a lamp that will be able to handle the bulb wattage you are using. Some lamps you can only use up to 100 watts.
Substrate choice matters for safety and cleanliness. Avoid calcium sand and reptile carpet. The dragon may ingest some of the sand and it could cause a calcium toxicity. The reptile carpet can get caught on their nails and cause harm, also they harbor bacteria. Instead, use tile, paper-based bedding (butcher block paper), rubber mats, or loose substrate like a soil/sand mix. Not all dragons do well with the loose substrate. I have some that get it in their eyes while others thrive with the soil/sand mix. Dragons love to dig!
Temperature and Humidity
Bearded dragons are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat sources to regulate body temperature. Maintain a temperature gradient in the enclosure with a warm basking area and a cooler retreat zone. Use a thermostat to prevent overheating and ensure consistent temperatures throughout the day.
Unlike tropical reptiles, bearded dragons prefer low humidity levels between 30-40%. Ensure good ventilation in the enclosure and avoid misting, which can promote respiratory issues. However, don’t get too caught up on the humidity. I know bearded dragon breeders from Florida that keep their dragons outside. If you have been to Florida, you know how humid it is. They have been in captivity for so long, they have somewhat adjusted to our climate.
Proper temperature is more important than humidity. Proper temperature allows for adequate digestion. However, they also need a temperature gradient so that they can get relief from the heat. In the wild, at midday, you will find them hiding in the shadows because it gets too hot. I recommend hides on both the hot and cool ends of the enclosure.
Diet and Nutrition
Bearded dragons are omnivores with dietary needs that change as they age. Babies and Juveniles require more protein and should eat insects daily, while adults benefit from a more balanced diet of vegetables and occasional insects.
Offer a variety of insects including crickets, dubia roaches, and superworms. Dust insects with calcium powder several times weekly and with a multivitamin supplement once weekly. For vegetables, provide dark leafy greens like arugula, collard greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens, and dandelion greens. Avoid iceberg lettuce, kale, and spinach. Iceberg lettuce offers little nutritional value. Kale and spinach are calcium binders and can deplete your dragon of calcium. Greens should make up most of your dragon’s salads. Other staple vegetables include squash, zucchini, sweet potato, carrots, bean sprout, broccoli. Fruits are an occasional treat. Blueberries, strawberries, papaya, apples are examples.
Feed your baby insects 2-3 times a day. I offer about 10 bugs per feeding. At around 9 months, I decrease my feedings to just once a day. At one year, I switch over to mostly vegetables and insects occasional. This would be a salad daily and insects 2-3 times a week, 6-10 insects each feeding. Make sure you are still dusting insects with calcium with each feeding and multivitamin with 1 of those feedings.
I know there are a lot of people out there that say, “you need to feed them 3-5 times a day.” You don’t. It’s better to feed them less. You don’t want to overfeed your dragon. Even as a baby you can overfeed. Trust me, my babies are not underfed!
Water is always a topic of debate. Some people say to always have water while others say you don’t. Neither is right or wrong. Less look at the dragon in the wild. They live in the desert of Australia. There is typically no standing water. They get their water from the insects and plants they eat. Their head is shaped to collect rainwater that will drain into their mouth. They also lick the dew off plants and rocks. Personally, I mist water on my hatchlings to stimulate dew in the wild. They are more prone to dehydration than adults. I will also spray their greens for extra fluid. I always hydrate their insects with carrots or potatoes. The bugs eat the vegetables and then the dragons eat the insects. This is called “gut loading.” However, if you want to provide a water dish there is nothing wrong with that. However, don’t worry if you never see them drinking.
Handling and Temperament
Bearded dragons are generally docile and enjoy interaction when socialized properly. When you first get your baby, it is best not to handle them for the first 5-7 days. Let them adjust to their new surroundings. After the adjustment period, start handling your dragon daily. Keep sessions short, 5-10 minutes initially. Support their body fully and avoid sudden movements that might startle them.
Watch for signs of stress like beard puffing, hissing, or stress lines. If your dragon displays these behaviors, give them space and try again later. Most bearded dragons become comfortable with regular, gentle handling and may even seem to enjoy it.
Health and Common Issues
Regular health checks help catch problems early. Watch for signs of illness including loss of appetite, lethargy, unusual droppings, or respiratory issues. A healthy bearded dragon should be alert, eat regularly, and maintain a good body weight.
Metabolic bone disease is common in bearded dragons with inadequate UVB exposure and calcium intake. Ensure proper lighting and supplementation to prevent this serious condition. Respiratory infections can develop from improper humidity or temperature, so maintain correct environmental conditions.
Parasites are another common health issue. Signs of parasites are diarrhea with weight loss, and lethargy.
Impaction is a health risk, but not as common as what people think. Impaction is more due to bugs that are too big and a lack of proper heating. It is not so much loose substrate. However, I advise not starting loose substrate till your baby is about a year old to reduce the risk.
Retained Shed or incomplete shedding can cause a restriction of blood flow to tails, toes, and eyes. Monitor your dragons shedding. However, don’t pull on the shed. If it comes off easily it is okay to remove. Pulling when not ready to come off can cause damage to their scales. Make sure your dragon has rough surfaces like rocks or driftwood in the tank for them to rub up on. If the humidity is too low this could cause an issue. If you are concerned about stuck sheds, a warm water bath or coconut oil are good shedding aids.
Find a veterinarian experienced with reptiles before you need one. Regular check-ups help ensure your bearded dragon stays healthy throughout its life.
Enrichment and Activity
Bearded dragons benefit from environmental enrichment. Include branches, rocks, and hiding spots in the enclosure to encourage natural behaviors like climbing and basking. Rotate decorations periodically to keep the environment interesting.
Supervised outdoor time in a secure enclosure during warm months provides natural sunlight and mental stimulation. Always supervise outdoor sessions and ensure your dragon cannot escape or encounter predators.
Getting Started
Before bringing a bearded dragon home, set up the complete enclosure with proper heating, lighting, and substrate. This allows you to verify temperatures and lighting are correct before introducing your new pet. Purchase food, supplements, and any necessary equipment ahead of time.
Consider adopting from a rescue or reputable breeder. Healthy bearded dragons should be alert, have clear eyes, and show interest in their surroundings. Avoid dragons that appear lethargic or have visible signs of illness.
With the right setup, nutrition, and care, your bearded dragon will thrive and become a beloved member of your family for years to come.
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